After several years of Covid limitations, tourists are flocking back to Europe (led largely by Americans, due to the strong US dollar) headed to such popular destinations as Rome, Paris, Barcelona, Athens, and of course Venice, which sees over five million tourists annually. If you fly into Rome, it’s over 500 kilometres to Venice, but the high-speed rail system can get you there in under four hours. It’s worth the trip. Venice has a seductive, romantic charm.
Known as the City of Canals, the Floating City, the City of Bridges, and La Serenissima (“the most serene”), Venice’s historic timeline spans some 2,000 years. Situated at the northwestern end of the Adriatic Sea, it was controlled by the Byzantine (Eastern Roman) Empire until 727 AD, when Venice declared itself a republic, and elected its first doge (chief of state). Venice continued to flourish as a trading center through the Middle Ages, and was the most prosperous city in Europe, through domination of shipping in the Mediterranean.
In 1204, the Venetians, along with Christian Crusaders, captured Constantinople (previously called Byzantium, and the modern-day Istanbul) and brought many treasures back to Venice, including the gilt bronze horses now inside Basilica di San Marco, also known as St. Mark’s Cathedral.
Venice’s fortunes began to decline by the 15th Century, and Napoleon Bonaparte conquering the republic in 1797, consolidating Venice into the Austrian nation. When Italy was formed in 1866, Venice joined the new state. Thankfully, during World War II, it was untouched by the carnage and destruction that befell other parts of Europe.
Given its history, Venice displays a mix of Byzantine, Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architectural styles, which makes it unique. Even more distinctive are the literal underpinnings of the city. Venice is spread over 118 small islands and a mere seven square kilometres, and was built by driving alder wood poles, imported from neighbouring Croatia, Montenegro, and Slovenia, deep into the clay beneath the marshy lagoons. On top of the pilings, wooden platforms were erected as a foundation for their buildings. Over the centuries, the wood was hardened by the salt water and did not decay, instead taking on a stone-like consistency.
Since the buildings and alleyways on every island were built without taking into consideration the design of the other islands surrounding it, the streets are rarely aligned, and consequently there are almost no straight routes to move across the city. The options getting around are to walk the narrow streets, or hire a gondola (one of 400 in the city), water taxi, vaporetto (water bus), or take the ferry.
Venice has some 180 canals and hundreds of bridges, the earliest dating to the year 1175. The main thoroughfare is the Grand Canal, at over four kilometres long, which bisects the city. Four bridges cross the Grand Canal, including the famous Rialto Bridge, built by architect Antonio da Ponte in 1591, whose design beat out a proposal offered by Michelangelo. The stone structure replaced a wooden bridge built in 1255, which itself superseded a pontoon bridge built in 1181.
The depth of the water in Venice’s canals varies due to tide levels, and also the amount of dredging done to remove silt and sand. Most canals are about six feet deep, while the Grand Canal is deeper, at about 16 feet. Swimming in the canals is against the law, and any inebriated tourist who takes the plunge risks being fined.
Venice is a beautiful, yet fragile, attraction, and has been designated as an endangered World Heritage Site by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization). The threat of rising sea levels and erosion of foundational terrain has prompted climate scientists to warn that, at the current rate, Venice will be completely submerged by the year 2100. In 2019, Venice was hit by flood damage costing a billion Euros, and the pandemic decimated the city’s bustling tourist industry, which, before 2020, brought in two billion Euros annually.
With 50,000 residents in its historic centre, and a similar number of tourist beds, it’s an expensive place for the locals, with the cost of living driven upwards by tourist demand. A hotel or bed and breakfast stay in Venice will require visitors to pay an “overnight tax”, with the amount varying based on the level of accommodation. There is also a “day-trippers” tax being implemented.
The Italian government made waves in 2021 when it announced that all large cruise ships were being banned from the port in central Venice. Opponents of the cruise ships say that they degrade the city’s unique cityscape, and negatively affect the ecosystem in the lagoon, damaging the fragile environment with the turbulent water their propellors produce. But supporters of the industry pointed to some 4,000 jobs in Venice related to the cruise industry. Some cruise lines have uprooted their operations: Royal Caribbean has relocated its Venice departures and arrivals to Ravenna, which is more than two hours from Venice by bus.
Must-see tourist attractions, aside from the Grand Canal and Rialto Bridge, include St. Mark's Square (also known as Piazza San Marco), with the Basilica of St. Mark and the Doge’s Palace. St. Mark’s Cathedral was originally built in 828 AD to house the bones of St. Mark the Evangelist, which had been stolen from Alexandria, Egypt by Venetian merchants. The original church was destroyed by a fire in 976 AD, and the current basilica was built in the 11th century. It is one of the most visited sights in Venice, primarily to see the amazing gold mosaics, which cover 8,000 metres of the church’s interior. The city also has a number of former palaces now functioning as art galleries, which are filled with old Venetian masterpieces.
A short water taxi ride from the Grand Canal takes one to San Michele, the cypress-lined cemetery island of Venice, which may appeal to a certain subset of tourists. Russian composer Igor Stravinsky and American poet Ezra Pound are buried there.
Lace, and ornamental glass (vetro veneziano) from the Venetian island of Murano, are highly-prized and purchased by tourists, and ornate Venetian masks are a frequent souvenir item. Artisan shops sell a variety of elaborately-decorated masks worn during the popular annual Venice Carnevale festival, which occurs before the Lent observance.
Wondering where to stay in La Serenissima?
If you won the lottery, or plan to spend most of your kids’ inheritance, consider the luxurious Hotel Cipriani, where actor George Clooney has been a regular guest over the years, and where his wedding party stayed for his September 2014 nuptials to human rights lawyer Amal Alamuddin. The actual wedding reception was held at the equally opulent, seven-star Aman Canal Grande Hotel.
This writer’s budget allowed for the comfortable but somewhat dated Hotel Bonvecchiati, located a mere two-minute walk from Saint Mark's Square and the Rialto Bridge. A water taxi dropped us, and our luggage, at the wharf which extends from the hotel’s back door.
A plethora of outdoor cafes offer afternoon Aperol spritzes and cappuccino in Venice, and upscale restaurants abound. My party splurged on a superb lunch at Gio’s, located in the St. Regis Hotel along the Grand Canal. The meal was expensive, but did not demand Michelin star prices (though the dinner menu was pushing in that direction). Fans of nostalgia will want to make a stop at the famous Harry’s Bar, where the Bellini cocktail was invented. This watering hole has been a landmark since the 1930s, and was a favorite of celebrities like Ernest Hemingway and Charlie Chaplin. Be sure to try the carpaccio, which is reported to be outstanding.
When to visit?
May to October offers the best Venetian festivals, nicest weather, and sunshine well into the evening. Of course, the closer to summer, the more tourist numbers, and the higher the prices. The summer months can also be stiflingly hot. September is one of the best months of the year to visit, as the oppressive heat subsides, and the weather remains pleasant. Fall arrives in October, and the chances of rain increase. November to February brings cooler and uncertain weather, but also lower prices. March and April also have cooler temperatures, but smaller crowds.
With mass tourism, rising sea levels, and scorching temperatures plaguing Venice, it’s best to visit before this cultural gem sinks into the Adriatic, a victim of climate change, and its own popularity.
