Our recent camping trip through Northern Ontario took Claudia and I to Pukaskwa Park, the final area on Lake Superior that we wanted to explore.
About 30 years ago, my friend Jimmy Lockard and our sons had conducted an underwater photography project there, on behalf of the park, at Hattie’s Cove. So I was interested in returning to see how it had changed over the intervening years.
It’s a very popular park and sites are on ‘first come first served’ basis so we could not pre -book a campsite. We took a chance knowing this and when we pulled up at the gate were pleased to learn that there were several sites available. The parks attendant at the gate told us to drive around and pick one out and then return to give them the site number. All the sites seemed to be good, and we were pleased to back into a nice one for our stay.
After setting up, we strolled down to Hattie’s Cove. A lot had changed since I had been there three decades before. A visitor centre had been built on the shore (unfortunately, closed for the season), but it had a nice seating area overlooking the cove with an accessible wifi signal.
We continued around the cove and began climbing a set of stairs that was part of the Southern Headland Trail leading up to a high promontory. Two Parks Canada red chairs were located at the top. This location gave us a commanding view of the lake and entrance channel to Hattie’s Cove. It was just so awesome to sit there and enjoy that remarkable view.
I had brought my wetsuit and mask, fins and snorkel and took the opportunity to swim around the entrance to Hattie’s Cove. It was shallower than I remembered but I was quite taken by the fact that it still remained a pristine, freshwater site with no zebra mussels, gobies or other introduced species — something that is rarely encountered in the south. After the snorkel dive, we spent the afternoon resting on the visitor’s centre deck, drying the suit and reading.
The next day we decided to enjoy a longer hike. A short walk from our campsite took us to the Boardwalk Beach Trail. There is platform overlooking the beach and Horseshoe Bay. The trail continues along the beach as the Beach Trail but breaks off on the far side.
We had decided to take the Manito Miikano, or ‘Spirit Trail’ at that point, as it led to two lookouts offering panoramic views of Lake Superior and the Pic River dunes. This trail follows natural surfaces with built stairs, some obstacles, loose rocks and tree roots. We worked our way along it carefully. It was certainly as advertised but we thoroughly enjoyed the views at the top.
It was a good work-out with some areas that were more difficult to traverse but the scenery along the way was worth it. When we arrived at the first lookout it was amazing to see the lake so calm, with just small waves breaking on some rocky outcrops.
Another younger couple arrived at just about the same time, having taken the other loop leading to the lookout.
After taking some photos, we headed to the second lookout and were equally satisfied with the view offered from it. Such beautiful country.
Later in the day, we walked east of the visitor centre on the Hattie Cove Fire Walk, which is a smaller section of the Coastal Hiking Trail.
The area has a series of exhibits related to the culture of the Anishinaabe First Nations. A meeting circle and three structures used by Indigenous Peoples make for an interesting site. They are used during interpretive programs.
Further on, signage indicates an area where a controlled burn took place. You can see how the recovery is taking place.
We just scratched the surface of this wonderful national park as far as hiking goes. There are much longer hikes that are quite demanding. One such hike is the six to nine-hour hike to the White River Suspension Bridge, the crowning jewel of Pukaskwa National Park. Hanging 23 metres over the Chigamiwinigum Falls, hikers are rewarded with breathtaking views of rapids that lead from White Lake to Lake Superior. That would certainly be something to work toward completing, maybe next year?
